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I was introduced to Reverse Painting on
Glass by nationally recognized glass artist
Judy Jensen, while attending Pilchuck School for Glass
in 1995. Over the past 11 years I have been developing
that process to suit my own artistic direction.
The process requires little equipment and
no firing time. I cut the glass into many different shapes
an sizes depending on the mood of the piece. The paintings
are very unique with a richness of color and amazing sense of
depth created as light is reflected off the color through the
glass.
People often look at the work in
amazement, not really understanding the process involved.
Generally, paintings are created by working from the background
to the detail on the front surface of the canvas, or other
medium used. With this process, I paint on the backside of
the glass, starting with detail and working, in layers, toward
the background. I use a variety of medium, such as oil
pastel, wax oil pencils, acrylics, gold leaf, glitter glue,
paper, etc... I am always looking for whatever I can find
to get the feeling I want.
The first step is laying out a detailed
drawing, as mistakes in the painting process are very difficult
to correct since thy cannot be painted over. Keep in mind
that the first things applied to the glass are the first things
seen in the finished work. Next, I will cut the glass and
finish the edges, making the glass safer to handle. Then,
one side of the glass is cleaned and a layer of clear contact
paper is applied to protect what will be the front of the
finished piece against scratching during the painting process.
Painting begins with the detail.
Each layer is fixed to the glass by spraying on a thin coat of
dull lacquer. This adds in creating depth as I work toward
a background, and keeps the finished areas from being disturbed.
Once the image is finished, several layers of opaque spray
enamel are applied and the three to four coats of gloss lacquer
are applied to seal and protect the image.
To further protect the image, the painted
glass is mounted on a high-grade plywood using an adhesive
silicone. The wood is then sanded and sealed, and sanded
and sealed until smooth. Any cracks or irregularities in
the sides or back of the backboard are filled with a vinyl
spackling compound and sanded until smooth, then sealed again
and sanded and sprayed with paint. Finally, a gloss
lacquer is applied and the contact paper is removed from the
front and the glass is cleaned.
I do all of the work myself and take great
care in every step to achieve a high-quality finished product.
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